A garden path should make your yard feel more inviting, not add another weekend chore to your list. The good news is that you can build a path that looks sharp, handles Toronto’s freeze-thaw cycles, and stays low-maintenance for years—without getting overly complicated.
This guide walks through the full process of planning and building a durable garden path using patio stones, with practical tips for drainage, base prep, edging, and weed control. Along the way, you’ll also see a few design ideas that make a path feel “finished” (without turning your yard into a construction zone).
Whether you’re connecting a driveway to a side gate, creating a walkway to a shed, or simply carving out a route through a garden bed, the same principles apply: choose the right layout, build a proper base, keep water moving, and lock everything in place so it doesn’t shift every spring.
Start with the path’s job, not just its look
Before you pick shapes, colors, or patterns, it helps to get clear on what the path needs to do. Is it a main walkway used daily? A casual stepping-stone route through a planting area? A muddy shortcut you’re trying to “civilize” so you stop tracking soil into the house?
Usage affects everything: width, base thickness, and even the best joint filler. A lightly used garden path can be simpler than a walkway that sees wheelbarrows, strollers, or snow shovels. If you want low-maintenance, it’s worth designing for the real wear and tear from the start.
Also think about seasonality. In Toronto, a path that looks great in July can become a slippery, heaved mess in March if water sits under it. Low-maintenance here really means “built for freeze-thaw and drainage.”
Planning the layout so it feels natural (and stays practical)
Pick a route people will actually use
The easiest way to build a path that stays tidy is to put it where people naturally walk. If you’ve noticed a worn line through grass or a muddy strip between two points, that’s your yard telling you the best route.
If you’re starting from scratch, use a garden hose or rope to test curves. Walk it a few times from different directions. Slight curves often feel more relaxed than straight lines, but too many bends can make the path annoying when you’re carrying groceries or dragging a hose.
A good rule: keep curves gentle enough that you can still shovel snow without constantly “fighting” the edges. Even if you don’t plan to shovel much, you’ll appreciate a layout that’s easy to maintain.
Choose a comfortable width (and don’t undersize it)
For a main garden walkway, 36 inches is a comfortable minimum. If two people might walk side-by-side, 42–48 inches feels much better. For a secondary path, 24–30 inches can work, especially if it’s more of a “garden stroll” route.
Wider paths are often easier to keep looking clean because there’s less edge erosion and less temptation to step off the stones into soil. They also give you room for edging and plant growth without the path feeling cramped.
If you’re using larger slabs, your width may naturally be dictated by the stone size. That’s fine—just make sure it still feels comfortable when you actually walk it.
Build in drainage from day one
Water is the main enemy of low-maintenance hardscaping. If water pools on top of stones, you’ll get algae, staining, and slippery spots. If water pools under the base, you’ll get shifting and frost heave.
Plan for a slight slope away from buildings and toward a safe drainage area. You don’t need a dramatic pitch—just enough that water doesn’t sit. In many cases, a 1–2% slope is plenty for a path.
If your yard has heavy clay soil (common in parts of the GTA), drainage matters even more. Clay holds water, which means your base needs to be well-compacted and properly layered so it doesn’t turn into a sponge.
Choosing materials that stay low-maintenance
Why patio stones are a smart choice for garden paths
Patio stones are popular for a reason: they’re durable, easy to source, and flexible in design. You can create anything from a clean modern walkway to a rustic garden path depending on color, texture, and pattern.
They’re also modular. If a section ever needs adjustment (say, after a utility repair), you can lift and reset stones without demolishing the whole path. That’s a big win for long-term maintenance.
If you’re browsing options, it helps to look at a range of patio stones so you can compare thickness, surface texture, and how the color reads in daylight. The “right” stone is the one that suits your yard’s style and can handle your expected traffic.
Thickness, finish, and slip resistance
For a garden path, thicker stones generally resist cracking and movement better—especially where the ground may shift with seasonal moisture changes. If you’re in a spot where you’ll occasionally roll a wheelbarrow, don’t go too thin.
Surface texture matters too. A super-smooth finish can look sleek, but it may be slippery when wet or when there’s a bit of algae. A lightly textured or tumbled finish often hides dirt better and provides more grip.
Color is partly aesthetic, partly practical. Very light stones can show staining; very dark stones can show salt residue. Mid-tones and variegated blends tend to be forgiving.
Base materials and joint fillers that reduce upkeep
The stones you see are only part of the story. The base and joints are what keep the path from becoming a wobbly puzzle. For low-maintenance, you want a base that compacts well and drains, plus a joint filler that discourages weeds and ants.
Common base layers include compactable granular material (often called “road base” or “crusher run”) topped with a bedding layer like coarse sand or stone screenings. The exact product names vary, but the goal is consistent: stable, compactable, and drain-friendly.
For joints, polymeric sand is a popular choice because it hardens after wetting, reducing weed growth and ant tunneling. It’s not magic—seeds can still land on top—but it typically cuts maintenance dramatically compared to plain sand.
Tools and prep work that make the build smoother
What you’ll want on hand before you dig
You don’t need a full contractor trailer of gear, but a few tools make a huge difference. A flat shovel, a spade, a sturdy rake, and a hand tamper are the basics. If your path is longer, renting a plate compactor is worth it for a solid base.
You’ll also want a long level (or a straight 2×4 with a level), a tape measure, stakes and string, and a rubber mallet for nudging stones into place. Knee pads sound optional until you’ve spent an hour adjusting pavers—then they feel essential.
If you plan to cut stones, a masonry saw is the cleanest option, but a grinder with a diamond blade can work for smaller cuts. Just be mindful of dust and safety gear.
Call before you dig (seriously)
Even a shallow garden path can cross utility lines, irrigation, or landscape lighting. It’s always safer to locate services before you start excavation. This is especially important near driveways, side yards, and older homes where lines may not be where you expect.
If you discover you’re working around utilities, you can often adjust the path route slightly or reduce excavation depth in that section with a different base approach. The key is knowing early so you’re not improvising mid-build.
Planning around these constraints is part of building low-maintenance: fewer surprises means fewer patch jobs later.
Marking the path edges so they stay true
Once you’ve chosen a route, mark the edges clearly. Stakes and string work well for straight runs; marking paint is great for curves. Take time here—your layout is the blueprint for everything that follows.
Measure the width at multiple points, especially on curves where it’s easy to accidentally narrow the path. A consistent width looks more intentional and makes stone placement easier.
It’s also the moment to decide where you want “clean” edges versus where you’re okay with a more organic border that blends into planting beds.
Excavation: the not-glamorous step that decides everything
How deep to dig for a path that won’t shift
Depth depends on your soil, stone thickness, and expected traffic. A common approach is to excavate enough for the stone thickness plus a bedding layer and a compacted base layer. In many residential garden paths, that may land in the 6–10 inch range total excavation.
If your soil is soft, wet, or clay-heavy, lean toward a thicker base. If you’re in a well-draining sandy area and the path is purely pedestrian, you may get away with less. The point is to create a stable “platform” that won’t settle unevenly.
Keep in mind: it’s easier to dig a little more now than to fix a sunken section later.
Dealing with roots and organic soil
If you hit roots, avoid cutting major tree roots whenever possible. Not only can it harm the tree, but roots will also keep growing and can lift sections of your path over time. If roots are unavoidable, consider rerouting the path or using a stepping-stone style with gaps that allow for movement.
Also remove organic topsoil from the path area. Organic material decomposes, which creates voids and settling. You want to build on stable subsoil, then add your engineered base on top.
As you excavate, keep the bottom of the trench roughly level side-to-side, then establish your gentle slope along the length for drainage.
Weed barrier: helpful, but not a miracle
Landscape fabric can help separate your base from soil and reduce the chance of base material sinking into soft ground. It also makes future repairs less messy. That said, most weeds in paver joints come from windblown seeds that germinate in debris on top—fabric doesn’t stop that.
If you use fabric, choose a quality woven geotextile designed for hardscape applications. Avoid thin “garden cloth” that tears easily and turns into a frustrating cleanup later.
Install it flat and overlap seams. Think of it as insurance for base stability rather than a weed-proofing solution.
Building a base that stays put through Toronto weather
Layering and compaction (the real secret to low-maintenance)
A strong base is built in thin layers, compacted thoroughly. Spread your granular base in lifts (often 2–3 inches at a time), wet it lightly if needed, then compact. Repeat until you reach your target height.
This step is where many DIY paths go wrong: dumping all base material at once and compacting the top doesn’t compact the bottom properly. The result is settling and uneven stones later.
If you rent a plate compactor, you’ll feel the difference immediately. The base becomes firm and “locked,” which is exactly what you want before placing stones.
Getting the slope right without overthinking it
You don’t need advanced math to set slope. Use a long level and raise one end slightly with a shim to create a consistent pitch. The goal is simply to keep water moving off the path rather than pooling.
On narrow paths, a slight cross-slope (tilting to one side) can be enough. On wider paths, you might use a gentle crown or slope the whole surface in one direction, depending on where you want water to go.
Take your time to check slope as you compact. Fixing it later is harder once stones are down.
Bedding layer: smooth, not squishy
On top of the compacted base, add a thin bedding layer to help you level stones. This layer is for fine adjustments, not for making up for an uneven base. If you need more than about an inch to “fix” something, go back and correct the base.
Screed the bedding layer using pipes or rails and a straight board, then remove the rails and fill the voids. Work in small sections so you’re not walking all over your perfectly leveled bed.
When done right, setting stones becomes satisfying: they drop into place, tap level with a mallet, and stay there.
Setting the stones so the path looks intentional
Patterns that hide imperfections and feel timeless
For rectangular stones, running bond (brick pattern) is forgiving and classic. For mixed sizes, a random ashlar pattern can look high-end while also helping you avoid long continuous joints.
If you’re using irregular flagstone-style pieces, dry-lay them first like a puzzle to find a natural arrangement. Rotate stones and mix tones so the path doesn’t look “striped” or repetitive.
Try to avoid skinny slivers along edges. They’re more likely to loosen over time and can look like an afterthought.
Keeping lines straight (even on a curving path)
On straight sections, use string lines to keep edges crisp. On curves, step back often and look at the path from multiple angles. Your eyes catch wobble faster than a tape measure does.
Check stone heights as you go. A small lip between stones can become a tripping hazard or a shovel-catcher in winter. Aim for a smooth surface with minimal lippage.
If a stone sits too high, remove it and scrape a bit of bedding away. If it’s too low, add a little bedding and re-seat it. Small adjustments now save you from constant tweaking later.
Cutting stones neatly without making it look “DIY”
Cut edges are often most visible along borders. If you need cuts, try to place factory edges on the most visible side and tuck cut edges against edging or into planting beds.
For curves, you can either cut stones to match the curve or use smaller units that naturally follow the line. Cutting looks cleaner when it’s consistent—random, jagged cuts tend to stand out.
After cutting, brush off dust and test-fit before moving on. A little patience here makes the whole path look more professional.
Edging: the unsung hero of low-maintenance paths
Why edging matters more than most people think
Without edging, stones slowly drift outward as you walk on them, as water moves through the joints, and as freeze-thaw cycles nudge everything around. That drifting creates gaps, uneven joints, and eventually a path that looks tired.
Edging holds the field of stones tight so your joints stay consistent. It also keeps bedding and joint sand from washing out at the sides.
If you want a path you can mostly ignore (in a good way), edging is non-negotiable.
Plastic, metal, or stone borders
Flexible plastic or metal edging is great for curves and is relatively easy to install. It’s usually staked into the base and hidden just below the stone surface so it doesn’t visually compete with your design.
For a more substantial look, you can use a soldier course (a border of stones set in a contrasting direction) or a dedicated stone curb. These options can look beautiful, but they may require more cutting and more careful base work.
If your path runs alongside a lawn, edging also helps keep grass from creeping into joints, which is one of the most common maintenance annoyances.
Pairing paths with walls and raised edges
Sometimes the cleanest way to reduce maintenance is to control grade changes around the path. If your yard slopes or you’re trying to terrace a planting area, a small retaining edge can prevent soil from washing onto your stones.
In some landscapes, a wall becomes a design feature that frames the walkway. If you’re exploring options that complement hardscaped paths, you might look at ideas for a concrete stone wall in Toronto—not because every path needs a wall, but because managing elevation and soil movement is a big part of keeping paths tidy.
Even a low border wall or raised bed edge can reduce the amount of mulch and soil that ends up on your walkway after heavy rain.
Filling joints to discourage weeds and ants
Polymetric sand vs. regular sand vs. gravel joints
Polymeric sand is a go-to for low-maintenance because it firms up and resists washout. It’s especially helpful if your path has tight joints and you want a cleaner look.
Regular sand is cheaper and easier to work with, but it tends to wash out and invites ants. You’ll likely be topping it up more often, which may be fine for a casual garden path but isn’t the most “set it and forget it” option.
Gravel joints (like pea gravel or small chip) can look great in cottage-style gardens and allow excellent drainage, but they can migrate and may not be ideal if you want a smooth surface for strollers or wheelbarrows.
How to apply polymeric sand the right way
Sweep sand into joints when the surface is completely dry. Work it back and forth until joints are full, then compact the stones (lightly) and top up again. The goal is full joints, not just a crust on top.
Clean off all residue from the stone surface before wetting. This is important—leftover dust can haze the stones once activated. Use a leaf blower on low or a soft broom to get the surface clean.
When you wet it, follow the product instructions carefully. Too much water too fast can wash out joints; too little water can prevent proper curing. Slow, gentle misting is usually the safest approach.
Weed prevention that doesn’t rely on chemicals
Even with polymeric sand, you may occasionally see a sprout or two—usually from seeds that land in organic debris on top of the joints. The easiest prevention is simple: keep the path swept so soil and mulch don’t build up in cracks.
If you do get weeds, pull them early. Small weeds come out easily; big ones break and leave roots behind. A quick check every couple of weeks during peak growing season is often all it takes.
For stubborn spots, boiling water can be an effective non-chemical option, but use it carefully around desirable plants.
Making it look finished with aggregates and planting edges
Using decorative aggregates to reduce mess
One underrated low-maintenance trick is adding a narrow strip of decorative aggregate along the path edge—especially where planting beds meet hardscape. This buffer zone catches mulch, reduces soil splash onto stones, and makes edging lines look crisp.
Aggregates can also help with drainage in problem areas. If you have a spot where water tends to collect, a gravel margin can keep the area from turning muddy and can protect the base from saturation.
If you’re comparing options, browsing Toronto decorative aggregates can help you find the right size and color to complement your stones. The best choice is usually something that looks natural in your landscape and isn’t so small that it scatters everywhere.
How to choose aggregate size for real-life use
Very small gravel can track easily into the house and migrate onto the path surface. Very large stones can be uncomfortable underfoot and harder to rake. A medium size often strikes the best balance for borders and accents.
If the aggregate is right beside the path, consider how you’ll maintain it. Can you easily blow leaves off it in fall? Will snow removal push it around? Think through the seasons, not just summer photos.
Edging the aggregate area (even subtly) helps keep it from spreading into the walkway over time.
Planting edges that won’t swallow the path
Lush planting along a walkway looks amazing—until it starts flopping onto the stones and trapping moisture. For low-maintenance, choose plants that keep a tidy shape or can be trimmed quickly without fuss.
Groundcovers can work well if they’re not overly aggressive. If you love a soft, cottage feel, you can let plants gently spill over the edge—but plan for a quick seasonal trim so the path doesn’t narrow over time.
Also leave a little breathing room near the stones. This helps the surface dry faster after rain, reducing algae and staining.
Design ideas that feel special without adding upkeep
Stepping-stone spacing vs. full paving
A full paved path feels solid and is easiest to shovel, but stepping stones can look charming and require less material. The tradeoff is maintenance: gaps can collect debris and weeds if you’re not careful.
If you go with stepping stones, set them at a comfortable stride length. Test the spacing by walking it naturally—don’t force your steps. A path that feels awkward will get ignored, and people will create their own shortcut.
For low-maintenance stepping stones, consider filling gaps with compacted gravel or a hardy groundcover that doesn’t need constant trimming.
Mixing stone sizes for a custom look
Mixing sizes can make a path look more “designed” and less like a kit. It also helps you avoid long straight seams, which can be visually distracting and sometimes less stable.
Lay out a few rows dry before committing. Step back and look for patterns that repeat too obviously. A little randomness (within a consistent style) usually looks best.
If you’re unsure, keep the pattern simple and let the surrounding plants do the decorating. A clean path is a great backdrop for greenery.
Lighting and edging details that don’t create chores
Low-voltage path lighting can make a walkway safer and more inviting at night. For low-maintenance, choose fixtures that are easy to access and not placed where you’ll constantly hit them with a shovel or mower.
Solar lights are tempting because they’re simple, but they can be inconsistent in winter and often don’t last as long. Wired low-voltage tends to be more reliable if you want something you don’t have to think about.
Keep lighting subtle—soft pools of light along the edge usually look better than bright runway-style dots.
Seasonal care that keeps the path looking new
Simple cleaning routines that prevent staining
Most path maintenance is just removing organic debris. Leaves, soil, and mulch hold moisture and can lead to staining or algae. A quick sweep or leaf blow now and then goes a long way.
If you see green buildup in shady areas, a gentle scrub with water and a stiff brush often handles it. Avoid harsh chemicals unless you truly need them, especially near garden beds.
For deeper cleaning, a light pressure wash can work, but use caution: too much pressure can blast out joint sand and create more work. If you do pressure wash, plan to top up joints afterward.
Winter tips: shovels, salt, and protecting joints
If you shovel your path, use a plastic shovel blade to reduce the chance of chipping edges. Keep the surface as even as possible during the build so you’re not catching the shovel on raised corners.
Be mindful with de-icing products. Some salts can cause surface scaling on concrete products over time. If you need traction, consider sand (and then sweep it up in spring) or choose a de-icer labeled as safer for concrete.
After winter, check for any joint loss or small shifts. Catching a minor issue early often means a 15-minute fix instead of a full reset later.
Spot repairs that keep small problems from spreading
One of the best things about stone paths is how repairable they are. If a stone settles, lift it, adjust the bedding, and put it back. If joint sand washes out in one area, re-sweep and re-activate as needed.
Keep a small stash of extra stones from your project if possible. Matching later can be tricky if a product line changes, and having spares makes repairs painless.
Think of maintenance as tiny touch-ups rather than big overhauls. A well-built base means you’ll rarely need to do anything major.
Common mistakes that turn “low-maintenance” into “constant fixing”
Skipping compaction or rushing the base
This is the big one. If the base isn’t compacted properly, stones will settle unevenly. The path might look fine for a month, then start to wobble after a heavy rain or spring thaw.
Take the time to compact in layers. It’s not the most exciting part of the project, but it’s the step that separates a path that lasts from one that needs annual repairs.
If you’re unsure whether it’s compacted enough, compact again. You won’t regret it.
Letting water decide where it wants to go
If you don’t plan drainage, water will plan it for you—and it usually chooses the most destructive route. That can mean erosion along edges, puddles that encourage algae, or saturated base material that shifts in winter.
Make sure water has an easy path off the stones and away from structures. If your yard has a low spot, consider redirecting the path slightly or improving drainage in that area before building.
Low-maintenance paths are really just well-managed water systems with nice stones on top.
Underbuilding edges and joints
Edges keep the whole system tight. Without them, the path slowly loosens. Joints lock stones together and reduce movement. If either is neglected, you’ll see spreading, weeds, and shifting much sooner.
Install edging properly, stake it well, and backfill the outside so it’s supported. Fill joints fully and keep them topped up if needed.
These details aren’t flashy, but they’re what make the path feel solid year after year.
A build sequence you can follow without getting overwhelmed
A simple step-by-step flow
If you like a clear roadmap, here’s a practical order of operations: mark the layout, excavate to depth, install geotextile (optional but helpful), build and compact the base in lifts, add and screed bedding, set stones, install edging, fill joints, then clean and activate joint material.
Working in that sequence keeps you from undoing your own work. For example, installing edging after stones are set makes it easier to get a tight fit, and filling joints after edging is in place helps lock everything together.
Break the job into sections if the path is long. A 25-foot path feels manageable when you treat it like two or three smaller projects.
How long it takes (realistically)
For a typical DIY garden path, excavation and base work often take longer than stone setting. If you’re working weekends, expect a few days of effort depending on length, soil conditions, and how much material you’re moving by hand.
Renting a plate compactor and having materials delivered close to the work area can cut your time dramatically. Moving base material in a wheelbarrow across the yard is often the hidden time sink.
Give yourself a buffer for weather. Trying to set stones in the rain or on saturated soil is a recipe for frustration.
When it makes sense to call in help
If your yard has significant slope, drainage issues, or you’re integrating the path with other hardscape features, getting professional input can save money in the long run. Fixing a failed base is more expensive than building it right once.
That said, many homeowners successfully build beautiful paths on their own—especially when the layout is straightforward and the focus is on careful prep.
The key is being honest about what you enjoy. If you like the idea of setting stones but hate moving gravel, you can always hire out the excavation and base work, then do the finish work yourself.
A low-maintenance garden path isn’t about finding a shortcut—it’s about putting effort into the steps that matter most, so your future self can simply enjoy the walk.
